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Bangkok
I
have arrived at Bangkok airport and collected my luggage. The humidity
hits me as soon as I get outside the airport, it is an intense heat,
I can almost feel it pushing at me, my lungs feel like they are breathing
underwater. I start to sweat instantly, my T-shirt sticking to me like
glue and with my backpack on my back it feels like there is a hot river
running down my spine.
I've
read my book and heard pretty much everything I want to hear about the
(in)famous Khao San Road. That's really has to be my destination as
that is where pretty much all the backpackers go, accommodation is cheap
and easy to find and everything seems to happen in and around 'the road'.
Being such a famous road, I suppose I have to give it a try at least.
I
find the bus that is going within a block or two of my destination.
I have my luggage stashed away under my wary gaze, making sure it goes
where it is supposed to, that it is not near the outside of the locker
and that the luggage door is closed before I get onto the bus. As we
set off from the airport I have all the advice, the warnings and recommendations
running through my head:
| We
turn the corner and there it is in all its glory! It's heaving. |
Never
let your bag out of your sight.
Don't leave anything in your room that you can't afford to lose.
Don't wear jewellery.
Don't take cigarettes or drink from people on the street. Watch out
for all the scams.
Watch out for the women, especially the really beautiful ones - they
might not actually be women!
OK
I think I have that, basically I'll shut myself away, not go out, not
eat or drink and not spend any money! Should have a good time here then!
On
the bus I'm sitting next to and so get talking to a French guy who is
also going to Khao San Rd. He has heard the same as I have, doesn't
have a place to stay in mind and we agree that when we get there we
will try and get a room together, at least for tonight, safety in numbers
and all that. We arrive, find our bags still there and in one piece
and set off, Lonely Planet in hand towards Khao San Rd.
| ...exotic
Thai food, the smells and colours are amazing... |
We
turn the corner and there it is in all its glory! It's heaving. We walk
into the road and all our senses are immediately overwhelmed. Smells,
sights, sounds coming at us from all directions. That is not the only
thing coming at us from all directions! The little tuk-tuks scream noisily
around all over the place, finding gaps that they will never fit through
and somehow making it anyway. Sign boards everywhere advertising everything
you can possibly need and a lot more besides. Every shop here is dedicated
purely to backpackers and travellers, cafes & restaurants with huge
TV screens. The latest movies blare out loudly and a there are boards
outside displaying a menu of tonight's specials, no not food, but more
films. These films haven't even been released yet in the UK, but here
they are courtesy of the latest DVD technology and the pirating rings
than run rampant throughout South East Asia. I don't like the idea of
films everywhere, if I am in Thailand, I want to see the place, not
veg in front of a TV all day.
There
are street vendors selling all kinds of exotic Thai food, the smells
and colours are amazing. For the less adventurous burgers and hot dogs
are also readily available! Tailors shops, offering to make a quality
suit for a mere $50. Travel agents are in abundance, advertising every
conceivable trip within Thailand, Temple tours, Jungle tours, City tours,
River tours, Chang Mai, Chang Rai, Kanchanburi, Koh Samet, Koh Tao,
within Bangkok, around Bangkok. Seems like there will be no shortage
of things to do here. It's amazing that every single agent has the best
price too.
People
here are milling around shopping for 'traditional' Thai souvenirs, comparing
prices for a relaxing Thai massage, deciding what film to see tonight,
sitting in bars chatting, watching films or live Premier League football
matches from England. 90% of them are Farangs, or white ghosts, as we
are known. The straight cut, straight from university graduates on their
way to or returning from a year in Australia. The long-term backpackers,
wise to all the scams, chilling out and catching up with others they
have met around the Asian circuit. The dreadlocked, tattooed seasoned
'hippie' travellers who know the culture and are living the forgotten,
spiritual life of Asia, finding themselves and escaping from the rigors
of Western civilisation.
This
is not Bangkok, this is not even Asia, it is like a world place, a plot
of land put by so that every nation can be together. The universal language
is English although Hebrew signs everywhere suggest that the Middle
East too is well represented. There are many Thai's here too, gladly
accepting the world currency, the US Dollar, finding a way to make a
good living from a new industry that, try as they do, it is impossible
to overexploit.
©Ian Picken 2004
 
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