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Bangkok 2
We look at a couple of guesthouses, basically just an upper floor cordoned off into tiny rooms by flimsy, wobbly walls that don't quite reach the ceiling. Some have fans, air-conditioning is not even thought of. Inside each of these rooms are one or two beds, old, creaky, dirty and probably full of many tiny creatures as yet unknown to science. After seeing the third place we decide that this is going to be about as good as it gets and as it is only a couple of dollars or so each, we can't really complain. We check in, I have a shower, get changed, hide all my valuables that I can't take with me in my pack and head out for a drink and a bite to eat. It has become dark by now and the place is really livening up, the music and films are louder, the busy throngs are busier, laughter and loud conversations spill out onto the streets, it is vibrant, colourful and exciting, but in a way, a little intimidating too. I find a bar, sit down and within minutes I am chatting to a couple on the next table. They have been here a few days and tell me all the places I should & shouldn't go, what to see, what to do. The usual backpacker compulsion to give information and advice becomes evident and I reply without being able to help myself with advice for a four-week trip to Vietnam where they will soon be going.
We share a few beers and a film comes on, I'm not really in the mood for that tonight so I say goodbye. I decide to wander the street for a while, trying to take everything in and feeding off the atmosphere of the thousands of people here with one aim in mind, to have a good time. It is quite infectious, that is why people come to Bangkok. Yes it serves many other purposes, it's culture, it's history, how it acts as a springboard for every other place in South East Asia are all good reasons to come here. But, if your not looking to have a great time, well, avoid it, or at least avoid the Khao San Road! I'm sure a lot of people see Khao San Road as tacky, touristy, noisy, dirty, as blatant corruption of the west on the east. Yes, it is all of the above, but it serves a purpose and it works. I have a fairly restless night and in the morning when things have quietened down a bit I head off from the hostel for breakfast and a bit of sight seeing. While eating breakfast I look at my Lonely Planet and see a temple not far from here that I have been recommended to see. I pay, put away the book having memorised the route (I don't want to be seen to look like I don't know where I am going even if I don't!), light a cigarette and am on my way. Within a few minutes I see the temple across the other side of a large avenue and taking my life in my hands begin to negotiate the heavy traffic. Just before I reach the other side I step on the remains of my cigarette in the gutter and walk onto the pavement and towards the golden spires, sticking out from the city, a true symbol of Thailand. They are quite beautiful, starting from a broad base and curving up gently maybe 30metres to a sharp point, the gold coating glinting and shining brightly in the glaring morning sunlight. I stop a minute to take it all in and take a photo or two when suddenly I am tapped on the shoulder from behind.
I turn, wandering what I am going to be sold now and see a policeman standing in front of me with a cigarette butt in his hand. He holds it out to me and says something in Thai. "Oh, I'm sorry" I say, assuming that this butt is the one I just put out in the gutter and reach out to take it. "No" he says followed by something completely unintelligible to me but gesticulating that I threw it away. "Sorry" I repeat and again go to take the offending butt back. He looks a bit angry so I back off a bit, wondering what is going on. OK, I dropped a cigarette butt, but in a city as dirty as this, well, is that a crime? I'd even get away with it in London, or New York, or, basically, anywhere. He pulls out a nice new brochure from his pocket and shoves it in my hand. I read it. It states (in English) that any littering is punishable by a $250 on the spot fine. What! I look at him and he has his hand out. $250 for dropping a cigarette butt? You have got to be joking! Looking at him he is anything but joking! I gesture that I don't have any money on me, let alone $250. He is still unimpressed, but shows me the other side, which says that a first offence is punishable by only $100. Well that's OK then!
In my mind I'm remembering all those people that have told me about scams by everyone including the police. I hold out a bit, not sure if it is a scam or not, but still quite shocked at what is happening. What can I do?
"Tourist Police" I say firmly, "Get me the tourist police" "No Tourist Police" He spits back. "Yes Tourist Police" I again demand Again he pushes his hand out for the money but I decide to stand firm. At this he looks around and calls his colleague over, phew someone who can speak English I expect. No such luck! His colleague says not a word, just takes me by one arm as my other is taken by the first police man and I am led firmly away down the road. I am now getting a bit worried, what is going on? Where are they taking me? People look at me, wondering what heinous crime I have committed, or perhaps that there goes another unsuspecting tourist to be taken to the cleaners! We approach a building, obviously a police station and I am led through the doorway to a small room with a table and another policeman with a peaked cap, I guess he is an officer. They sit me down, the officer looks directly at me as he receives the explanation of why I am here. He says something to me and I look at him blankly, he says something to the first policeman who disappears and returns a minute later with another person, not in uniform. This new person tells me that he speaks English. Good, again I ask for the tourist police but he says that they will not come, that this is nothing to do with them. He only speaks a few words of English but explains that this is a new law and I must pay. I tell them I do not have nearly $100 dollars on me, but that, obviously is not good enough. I
know I have two folds of notes in my pocket, so I reach in and pull
out the smaller, it is about 320 Baht or about $8. I put it on the table,
they look at it and say it is not enough. I shrug, put it away and say
I have no more.
©Ian Picken 2004
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