Even in the five and a half years that I have been, travelling I have witnessed a lot of change. Change in the world, change in attitudes, change in technology and, as much as anything, change within myself.

Working in South America I see a lot of change, some forward, but more often backward. It is interesting how people adapt and cope with the changes. Back home in England, big changes in living conditions, weather, politics and day to day life are relatively few and happen slowly. People can work up with them, live and learn as the changes happen and adapt slowly. In other countries changes can happen so rapidly and unexpectedly that people have to do what they must to fit in with the new situation, to cope and to live with things after the change.

I met Emma on a trip I was leading from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil to Quito, Ecuador. It was a nine week trip and it didn't take long before we both realised we had a lot in common, and not long either before things began to get a little serious between us. This was a big change for me; to go from having been free and independent all my life, to being part of a unit with someone else, having their wants, needs and feelings in the equation took some getting used to. It's a big change but one that I felt, and still do feel was and is worth it. Emma has just completed her training back in England and learnt how to drive a 17 Tonne truck. Not bad for a school matron standing at 5 foot 3! It was a big change for her and she rose to it and made it happen. Now she has come over to Quito and in 5 weeks time we start our first trip together, another 9 weeker, from Quito to Rio and then back to Quito once more.

Emma has just completed her training back in England and learnt how to drive a 17 Tonne truck. Not bad for a school matron standing at 5 foot 3!

We work as Overland Expedition Leaders, which is a 24/7 job. It is a great job, hard work, but a great way of life and we get to see some of the most amazing places in the world whilst getting paid to do it. Holidays are few and far between so when we get them we have to make the most of them. Before we can even think about a holiday we have to be totally happy that our expedition truck is ready. Repairing and replacing worn parts, varnishing and cleaning the interior, stocking up on supplies and getting it in top shape for the next 19 weeks on the road: to Rio and back; over 20,000 kilometres of roads varying between very good and extremely bad. And then there is the paperwork; accounts, planning the itinerary, making bookings...the list goes on!

Three weeks later, the truck is looking good and we have 10 days to relax. We talk about going away and agree that Cuba would make an interesting place to visit. Two days later we are on the plane from Quito, heading towards the warmth of the Caribbean, ready for a bit of luxury and some well-deserved relaxation.

I don't really know a great deal about Cuba at this moment, apart from the obvious: Fidel Castro, cigars, rum and Che Guevara, and even those are more names than anything else. For me that's one of the best parts of travel; to see, to discover, to learn and to find out how other peoples ideas and way of life differs from that which is the norm for me.

The plane is over the Caribbean Sea and below is turquoise blue, the colour of adverts tempting us to these far away destinations. Just looking at it puts me into relaxation mode. As we near Cuba small islands start to appear, white sand blazing a contrast against the blue, the sea and sand combing into the most therapeutic blues and greens that paradise is made of. We reach the mainland and to my surprise it is flat. I expected a more rolling landscape, similar to the mountains of Jamaica perhaps. All the land is farmed into neat square blocks, looking so well organised from several thousand feet in the air.

Into the open after immigrations and customs and the heat and humidity hits us - just as the rain does too. A tropical down pour: this isn't rain; it's a waterfall! We get into the back of the taxi and head off into the lush, green, palm tree lined countryside. Ah, back in the Caribbean!

The first things that grab our attention are the cars here. Collectors items from the 40's and 50's; old Chevy's, Oldsmobile's, Cadillac's and Ford's; all big rounded beasts, huge tail fins with arrays of lights, shiny chrome bumpers, massive bonnets covering roaring motors the size of modern diesel trucks. Most of the cars are in excellent condition, obviously cared for and well looked after and considering the size of them, it must take a whole day to wash and polish the chrome-work alone! These classic American cars are everywhere, if you saw just one of these back home, heads would turn and you would tell your mates about it down the pub. Here it is the norm, not just the collectors' pieces found at classic car meets.

Driving into Havana, the countryside starts to disappear and the city starts to impose itself. We start to see massive billboards, spray painted walls and signs all displaying a similar message, "Viva la revolucion" "42 years of revolution" "Viva Fidel Castro" "Go to your local Young Communists meeting", "Cuba says no to imperialism". The communist message is everywhere, telling the population how great life is under this political system, how great for them the revolution was, and how lucky they are to have Fidel Castro as their leader. Most of these messages are very obviously propaganda; state sponsored dictates, keeping the socialist dream firmly in place. Some however are not, they have been spray painted with a quick hand by people who believe in what they have and how they live.

This, to me, is very different from the way things normally work. Political graffiti is written because people want something different, because they want change. How often at home do you see graffiti stating how great the government is doing? Not too often in London, that's for sure. Surely if people know and love what they have there is no need to keep reminding them. We don't, however, see any anti-government propaganda, so maybe the people here have found the way to live that is good for them all and they want to shout about it. What a great thought. We drive past one building, 10 stories high and on one side is a 20m tall outline of Che Guevara, the socialist icon. Underneath is maybe his most famous quote: "Hasta la Victoria...Siempre!" "Always until victory".

I am looking forward to finding out more about life on this island.

Driving further into the centre of La Havana we see the Party Headquarters, a rather uninspiring building set in lush green lawns.

As we near Cuba small islands start to appear, white sand blazing a contrast against the blue...

This contrasts greatly with the city centre as we start to see some of Cuba's colonial history: huge ornate buildings, stone crafted monuments that testify to a time of wealth and extravagance. The old government building stands proud; looking like a smaller version of Washington's Capitol Hill with it's pillared front and domed roof. Opposite this we see beautiful colonial housing four levels high, where once luxuriated the wealthy colonists and their throng of servants. A closer look reveals that many of them are in a state of decay, ruin or even dilapidation. It is obvious straight away that Cuba has been through many a change in its rich history. But what is happening now? Are we now back in the late fifties or early sixties? Somehow time seems to have stopped in its tracks.

Arriving at our hotel, a rather drab blocky building, we are told that although we have booked it, they don't have any double rooms. We are shown other rooms but these are old, unkempt, shabby affairs and we are, quite frankly unimpressed. After talking to the booking company we agree to pay another sum of money to get a better hotel and a double room. A taxi ride later we are there. The hotel looks better and when we are shown to our room, via 5 flights of stairs (the lift not working, and judging by the sign on it, its probably not seen too much service at all in the last few years). The room is better. Marginally! The shuttered windows could do with a paint job - or at the very least a wipe down with a damp cloth. The mould on the bottom of the walls adds a certain je ne se pas and the bathroom is as small as it could physically be to house an antique sink, toilet and pipe sticking out of the wall which, presumably is the shower. I can't say at this point that we are too impressed here either! However we are tired from our journey and just want to stop and relax. We grudgingly accept the room, close the door and flop down onto the not particularly comfortable bed.

We sleep fitfully through the hot night and awake in the morning to blazing sunshine and a level of humidity that leaves us sweating just lying down. Our first port of call will be the fortress overlooking the entrance to the bay upon which La Havana sits. Legend has it that when the first sailor made dock here the first person he met was a beautiful lady by the name of Havana. Thus the city was named. The fortress is like many Caribbean lookouts, well-built, large and giving excellent strategic viewpoints and weapon placements to reach across the narrow passage way to the city. From here also we get a panoramic view of the port, and onto the bustle of activity behind.

Reaching the top, we are invited into the lookout room, which still serves it purposes today. In this room are the radios, and, still used, the maritime flags that are hoisted when ships enter to give them their docking or leaving instructions. Along with these are the flags of the different countries that trade here, flown as a welcome to visitors and merchants from around the globe. There are the flags of many countries, but conspicuous in its absence: the Stars and Stripes of the United States.

North America has had a fair share in Cuba's history. Back between the 1920s and the 1960s the US had a lot of control and investment in the island and at one point it may well have been working its way to acquiring the island as another state. During Prohibition in the States, when alcohol was illegal, Cuba became the playground of the rich. Being less than 300kms from Florida it was easily accessible and people flocked here to drink the forbidden drink, party, and socialise with other stars, businessmen and those fortunate enough to have been born into the wealthy classes. It was here at this time that the art of mixing drinks and glamorously naming them first came about. It was in Cuba that the cocktail was invented.

The communist message is everywhere, telling the population how great life is under this political system, how great for them the revolution was, and how lucky they are to have Fidel Castro as their leader.

Half a century later and a complete turnaround has occurred. It is illegal for US citizens to spend money in Cuba and Cuba itself will have nothing to do with this, the greatest and most successful of capitalist nations. No US made goods maybe imported, no US issued or affiliated credit cards used and no business may be done between the two neighbours. As Fidel has said:

"We will not surrender....Socialism or death!"

Of course this cuts both ways; The US will not permit the import of goods from Cuba either, one of the reasons why Cuban cigars are so highly valued on the mainland. It is not difficult to see who is winning this stand off. Strange then that with all this anti-imperialist propaganda, the one thing that is accepted here, and with voracity, is the Greenback: The US dollar.

Two currencies operate in Cuba, the Cuban Peso and the US Dollar. All Cubans use exclusively Pesos and all foreign tourists are supposed to use exclusively US Dollars. The official exchange rate is 26 to 1 but although it is possible to buy Pesos it is actively discouraged and tourists get charged the same in dollars as locals do in Pesos. Therefore, even after having managed to change some dollars into pesos we cant really spend them. This makes Cuba an expensive country to travel in, especially for budget travellers. We have already found this in the price we paid for the hotel, for taxis and for food. On the way back from the fort however we get to spend some pesos on the bus, between us the 20minute ride costs us 1 peso, less than 4 US cents!

The bus ride takes us into the city to a Plaza near the dock, opposite the fort. As we get out of the bus the heavens open once more and we make a dash to the safety of the Museo de la Revolucion. Like most of the 'public' buildings in Havana the museum is a grand affair, built in Roman style, large columns supporting the triangular portal. Inside the high ceiling and polished floors give one more idea of the grandeur and wealth that has existed here. We walk up the grand stone staircase ahead and browse through the museum.

There is a lot of information here, a history of Cuba which starts with the discovery of the Americas (or at least the Caribbean Islands) by Cristobal Colon, better known as Christopher Colombus to us English speakers. It ends with Fidel Castro's intervention in 1959. It is an interesting history and it is even more interesting in that for a communist revolution it launched one of the biggest capitalist markets for T-shirts and posters in the world. The face of the ultimate socialist, the revolutionary: Che Guevara.

Apart from his face, the majority of people who use his image know very little about the man himself. This is strange for someone so famous. Ernesto Guevara was born to a middle class family in Buenos Aires, Argentina. He was a medical student at university and before he graduated he set off on a journey around South America with his friend, another medical student. They started their travels on their Norton motorcycle, El Podoroso - Th Powerful One. Their journey took them around Argentina and into Chile before El Podoroso gave up the ghost and they were forced to continue by hitchhiking, stowing away on ships and begging lifts in cars and trucks. They continued north to Peru where Ernesto earned the nickname 'Che'. In Argentina 'Che' is a word used to get peoples attention, it means 'Mate', so in England it would be like saying to someone you don't know, "Hey mate!" to get their attention.

Their travels got them into many scrapes and situations, which they got out of using cunning and often devious means. They were basically penniless,

It is not difficult to see who is winning this stand off.

but begged, borrowed or stole their way around the continent, sleeping rough and travelling light. At this time Che started to develop his socialist ideas and a few years later whilst in Mexico he met up with Fidel Castro.

Fidel Castro, a man who had been imprisoned in Cuba for his outspoken ideas against the government (ironic that he would later forbid actions such as those he made himself), was now living outside the country with his brother Raul, meeting with people and gaining support for his movement. Castro was not impressed with the way that Cuba was selling out to the Americans, that the rich owned all the land and the poor worked hard for little or nothing. He had learned a lot about the Communist ideals held in Russia and met with Trotsky, at this time living in exile in Mexico. He decided that Communism was the way forward for Cuba and his people there. He started to plan his Revolution.

When they met Fidel recognised similar ideals in Che and together with his medical training realised that he would be an asset to the cause. In his own way Che impressed Fidel and his revolutionary troops. He rose quickly gaining respect from them for his commitment, ideals, bravery and his from the front leadership. He soon became Fidel's right hand man and commander of one of his divisions.

Together they planned the attack on Cuba and it's leader, Batista. They bought a small boat called Granma and set off for Cuban shores with 81 men onboard. They landed at night in the south east of the island and quickly took a hold of the area. As they progressed westward through the island they gained support from the farmers and the 'oppressed'. After some fierce and bloody battles they took control of the island and the worlds newest communist state was born.

That famous, enigmatic photo of Ernesto 'Che' Guevara, staring up into the sky, deep in thought was taken whilst he was standing on the platform as Fidel was giving one of the first of what would become his trademark speeches. Often lasting hours and full of propaganda, hype and rhetoric. The photo quickly became the symbol of socialism and sold a million T-shirts.

After the revolution, Che was given a place in Fidel's government, in charge of finance. Unfortunately, this wasn't the role for him and after making a fairly bad job of it he decided to pursue more revolutionary activities elsewhere. When Che decided to leave and help the cause in the Congo, Fidel made him denounce all his rights and all association with Cuba, making it clear that he or his state did nor support Che's new activities. After a few years and a failed revolution, Che left the Congo.

The next time Che returned to Cuba was in 1997 when his remains were brought back, 30 years after he was captured and executed by the Bolivian army, as he was trying to lead another revolution there. In Bolivia, Che had little support, was ridiculed by many of the people he tried to recruit and died a broken and emancipated man. A far cry from his days leading the revolution in Cuba.

Today in Cuba, he is still revered; his presence is everywhere, as is his name and image. "Viva Che!"..."Che lives!" "Seremos como Che...We will be like Che"

Whilst in the museum, looking around, I get a tap on the shoulder. I look round and find myself looking at another overland leader from South America, Moose, who is with his girlfriend, Christina. We knew we were both going to be in Cuba at the same time, but to meet up unexpectedly like this is a surprise. We agree to catch up for a drink and some food this evening.

Finishing off the museum, we go outside to a small park where the boat Granma takes pride of place. It is inside a glass building with steps outside so that visitors to the museum can get a good look. Three armed guards stand close by and one even comes up to us and has a chat, proud to welcome us to his country and proud also to practise his little English with us. Along with Granma are a couple of planes used in the struggle as well as several vehicles. These vehicles started off as standard jeeps, trucks and other common forms of transport and were transformed using steel plates and welded into armoured cars and tank like contraptions. It shows how much the revolutionary forces had to do and with how little they had to do it with. It is impressive that they succeeded against a professionally trained and equipped army.

One of the things I can't not do whilst in Cuba is to get in some Scuba diving. I have heard that Isla Juventud, Cuba's second largest island is the place to go for this, but there are other places too. Back at the hotel I check out prices, accommodations and transport arrangements. Everything I check out is expensive and doesn't seem very good value so I go to a travel agent and ask again there. The same story.

Apparently Abbey National is affiliated with a US bank and it is simply not accepted in Cuba!

The lady serving me is very helpful and passes me a brochure for an all-inclusive resort on a small key just off the coast of the island. It is a lot more than I want to pay but it does look good. I am not a fan of the all-inclusive, having worked in one for six months in Jamaica, but we are on holiday, I'm sure Emma will love it and it does look like pure luxury! I decide to go for it. Emma is back at the hotel having eaten something that didn't agree with her and I plan to surprise her.

I get out my credit card and hand it over. I know that using American Express will be a waste of time as it is a US corporation so I feel safe with my English Abbey National Visa card. No such luck! Apparently Abbey National is affiliated with a US bank and it is simply not accepted in Cuba! I have to get Emma up and bring her down to sign the Travellers Cheques. It is lucky we didn't just rely on cards or we could be stranded here. The luxurious surprise is ruined when the lady behind the counter gives Emma a brochure to show us where we are going. She is however quite enthusiastic about it.

We meet up as arranged with Moose and Christina that evening and share some tasty mojitas, a rum drink with a mass of mint leaves in it. Once crushed a bit, it is a very refreshing drink and very typically Cuban. We have the brochure with us and show it to Christina. Instantly she wants to go there too and Moose is more than a little impressed. Several mojitas later they tell us they will check it out and probably see us there in a few days.

The next morning we are up at 4am and outside the hotel waiting for our lift at 4:30. By 5am no one has turned up. By 6am some other people have turned up and then left with other companies' buses. The flight is at 7am so we are getting a bit concerned. Finally, just after 6:30 we are collected and dashed of to the airport. We arrive just in time for the flight, but typically this too is a little late.

As we fly over Cuba and reach the Caribbean on the south side, we again start to see the beautiful islets and keys. We approach Cayo Largo, our destination, and it looks too good to be true. A long sand bar with palm trees dotted along the dazzling white sand surrounded by refreshingly clear and invitingly calm turquoise water...

 

 

©Ian Picken 2002