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The Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos Islands! The inspiration for Charles Darwin's Origin of Species was found here. The Galapagos, an archipelago, or group of islands, in the middle of nowhere. They sit, straddling the equator, in the eastern part of the Pacific Ocean, 1,000km from the nearest shoreline, that of Ecuador who owns and administrates them. Unmolested by man until a mere few hundred years ago, they have developed and evolved completely alone, unconnected to anywhere else on earth. There are many species here that are endemic, not found elsewhere, unique in the world, characteristics adapted for their environment over the millennia. I've wanted to come to these islands for years, and now, here I am! Having been on the road for six months straight and having just finished leading my first Exodus trip 10,000km from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil to Quito, Ecuador, I feel I deserve a week or so to myself. I have been planning this for the last month or so with Rob, my co-driver on this trip and leader/trainer for the 14 weeks before that. After a bit of a tough start we got on really well. He's a great guy, flamboyant, irrepressible, outrageous; you have to like him!
We get off the plane, an hour and a half flight from Quito, a smoggy city perched 2,800m up in the Andes, with even breathing difficult due to the altitude. And now we are standing on the tarmac, at sea level in one the most unpolluted places on earth. It's hot too. The sun is strong and the humidity makes it wet and sticky. We wait in the queue to pay our US$100 park entrance fee. There are thirteen islands here that are larger than 10 square kilometres, 6 smaller isles and about 40 smaller still named islets. All are part of the National Park, which is located within 45,000 square kilometres of Marine Reserve. The Galapagos Islands started to form around eight million years ago. They are right on the edge of the Nazca Plate which is slowly moving away from it's neighbour the Cocos Plate. This movement causes an up welling of lava between the plates that give rise to volcanoes. All of the islands are volcanically formed and the area remains today one of the most volcanically active areas in the world. The islands are even moving: at a rate of about 7cm per year. This ensures that, as one island moves away, another will be formed in its place. The National Park was inaugurated in 1959 and declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. The Chimu people of Northern Peru discovered the islands first in the late 1400s and later, the first Europeans sailed upon their shores in 1535. With their abundance of fresh water and plentiful supplies of animals, the Europeans found them an easy place to stock up on water and meat. Discovering this easy cache of food and supplies meant that many species on the islands and in the rich surrounding ocean were hunted almost to extinction. Whales, Fur Seals and Giant Tortoises were amongst those threatened. Some species have still not recovered particularly a species of Giant Tortoise, of whom Lonesome George is the last remaining member.
Much of the flora and fauna on the island, as I've mentioned, is unique. It has arrived on the island in three ways. Firstly by floating across on air currents. Secondly by drifting in the ocean itself or on rafts of natural vegetation from distant lands, pushed along by the wind and waves. Thirdly by being carried by birds across the endless ocean miles. From the moment of their arrival they have had to change and adapt to the different conditions and environment. Evolving in different ways than their descendants did, becoming new species. The lack of predators has also helped them thrive unhampered, seeking out and filling their own niche. Once again man has played a part, introducing domestic animals like rats, goats, dogs and cats that prey on the locals or destroy the flora needed by native species. There is a huge amount of work going on, mainly based at the Charles Darwin Research Centre to eradicate these introductions, to stabilise populations and help the islands return to what they once were. Luckily, not all the islands have been effected and these continue to evolve as they have throughout the centuries. There are many strict rules and regulations that we will have to follow, but if that keeps the islands alive then that has to be a good thing. We are booked on a boat called the Aida Maria, it is a 66ft 'Tourist Class' vessel that can carry up to 16 passengers. Once we get through paying our entrance fees and having our bags checked for vegetation and animal products, our guide for the week, George meets us outside the airport. We will be boarding the boat this evening. Before that we have some time to spend in the Capital of the Galapagos, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on the island of San Cristobal or Chatham (Most of the islands have a Spanish (official) name and an old English name from before Ecuador claimed them). We take a walk down to the beach and see our first lizard; it's a Lava Lizard. It sits there on a lava outcrop, baking in the warmth of the sun. It's colouring is amazing, oranges, browns, yellows, greens all giving it excellent camouflage when crawling about in the vegetation. It sits and studies us as we in turn study him. On to the beach and there are a colony of sea lions perched on the jetty, lazing in the sun. We are told we can get quite close, as there is no male around. We walk within a metre or so and they pay us absolutely no notice at all. We watch them for a while and then go off to lie in the sun and relax on the beach ourselves. I have a stinking cold, it always happens after long periods with no chance to relax. I get an hour or so sleep and feel much better for it.
©Ian Picken 2004
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